Day 3: On the road again

8am

I woke to the sound of heavy rain this morning, which eased off around 7am. It’s nice to know there may be intermittent breaks to the downpour.

This seems like a great day for a breakfast burger.

11am

After a few stops to take a pic at Lake Pukaki, then another stop to not fly a drone at another lookout (it was specifically signed as a No Drone Zone), I came upon the turnoff for Aoraki/Mt. Cook.

I glanced up into the mountains, saw the fog, shook my head, then rode on by.

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Then I pulled over, facepalmed 🤦‍♀️ and did a swift U-turn, figuring that if it was too foggy, I could turn back once again.

As is quickly becoming a catchphrase for me, I was shouting ‘Are you kidding me?!’ after every other corner taken.

ARE YOU ABSOLUTELY KIDDING ME?!

I’ve only got 3G access here (full bars), but it’s a throwback to the dark ages in terms of mobile data speeds. We take 4G for granted, but what a leap it was!

All that just to say that I’ll have to post pics and videos later. Yesterday, I only blipped the Sony action cam for nice looking bits. For this ride, I ran it the whole way.

12pm

Currently enjoying a latte at the Aoraki/Mt Cook information centre cafe. Alpine vistas, a calming chill in the air, a fireplace… 👌 😉

A mountain called John – Part 2

And up here a ‘wee bit’…

The sign says it’ll take one hour and 45 minutes in total. I’ve got that to spare.

I’m going to do a walking up a mountain thing!

They take their rugby so seriously! 😳

So lonely.

Up until this break into the open, it was all trees and an incline. Much incline 🥵

I genuinely forgot to take any photos.

Up the stairs I went, the One Ring clenched firmly in my palm.

But how easily I was distracted by the view!

Higher…
I’m told it’s called ‘hiking’.

Once I got to the southern summit I just sat there, staring at the area around me, so far below.

I felt a sense of accomplishment and I was overwhelmed by the view.

The Southern Alps looked majestic. Clouds covered the very tops of the mountains and I couldn’t help but imagine being drawn to Sauron’s Eye atop one of the peaks.

It was an experience

The longer I stayed, the darker the sky became and the fiercer the wind blew. It began with deep groans, then rose to tormented wails as it sliced between the rocks all around me.

I stood against the onslaught as steadfastly as I could, imagining myself a warrior against a ghostly enemy. I tried to shout it back – I’m still alive! I’m still here! – To my surprise, it came out in Japanese.

I was moved to tears. I was alone as a human, but more deeply connected to the natural world around me as I’ve been in a long time.

Still, as energised as I felt, my strength was hardly enough against the pummelling, frigid gusts.

Before long, I retreated to the shelter of a nearby ridge and became myself again. I sat for a time and stared back towards Lake Tekapo, soaking up the experience.

I felt something up there on Mount John’s southern summit. It began as a hike to pass the time and it became so much more.

At the very least, I learned why people go on holidays. Truly. It’s something I never quite understood before.

Now, I’ll be one of the many, working hard to make time to seek out more of these incredible experiences.

And finally, so as to not have to end on too deep a note:

Tomorrow, it’ll be time to leave Lake Tekapo and seek out different experiences.

The Met Service says Lindis Pass won’t have such severe gusts as it did today – up to 56kph steady with gusts over 100kph 😳

I can’t wait to find out what it’s like in the morning.

A mountain called John – Part 1

Just like Frodo and Sam, I’m heading up a mountain.

Unlike Frodo and Sam, I’m not going to meet Arwen 😕

The guy at 4 Square told me that it’s about a three hour round trip to the Mt John observatory. Let’s see about that…

Just down here…
Past this area…

11:10am

There are flowers down by the lake that have grown up from between the rocks and pebbles. They’re thriving.

Why shouldn’t I go about my life in the same manner, relentlessly seeking to grow? Stubbornly existing in my own way.

I have the ability to think and I would choose to waste it on doubt, frustration and anger? It seems a shame.

Choose life.

11:20am

In the following clip, a second bird flies right into the middle of the shot. I didn’t see it and so cut the clip when I did.

As I looked up, the bird dove into the water and came up with a fish larger than itself. The fish struggled, the bird lost its grip and it came away without a catch.

Initially, I was disappointed that I didn’t capture the event, but I took it as a great reminder to observe things for myself as well.

“Remember to look for yourself”.
Around here…

Part 2

Day 2: Stuck

7:30am – The gusts have set in.

I don’t very much feel like riding Ruby through these monster gusts.

Checkout is at 10am, so I’m going to freshen up, grab a bite to eat, then decide on my next move.

I hear Our Dog Friday (the bar downstairs) makes a decent coffee 👌😉

In the beginning, there was coffee…

8:30am – The bean juice kicked in and the brain turned over with a decision.

My choices for handling this situation were many, but I opted for the easiest – stay in Tekapo for another day. When I checked the YHA website, there was another room spare, so I jumped on it.

I actually have several days up my sleeve for these very occurrences, so I cashed in my first straight up.

I wonder what there is to do around here?

In case it wasn’t clear from the earlier clip – it’s windy.
Scut with the Wind

10am – Completely checked out.

I feel naked! I’m temporarily homeless.

I jammed most of my belongings into Ruby’s panniers and top box. I’ve decided to keep my backpack on me, along with the drone and camera.

11am – A new adventure begins!

I went to the local Four Square for some sun cream, because I got a little baked on my trip yesterday.

Whilst I was paying, I decided to ask the person behind the counter if there were any decent walks around the place. He excused himself and grabbed a map. He then marked where we were with an X and highlighted a few options for me:

  • The chapel nearby.
  • Mt James.
  • A longish inland loop.

Knowing that there is an observatory at the top, I decided on Mt James.

Choose your own adventure: 1

Multiple people have told me to traverse Lindis Pass between Omarama and Cromwell.

According to the Met Service, the area is due to be pummelled by a steady 20-28kph wind for most of tomorrow. Not ‘gusts of’, constant. It’s nowhere near the 48kph that apparently hammered through there at 4pm today, but it’s still no walk in the park.

The wind was a constant 24kph as I rode into Lake Tekapo today and it was, as I said, hairy. I don’t want to experience that going up and down mountain roads.

On Sunday, the wind is due to settle to around 12kph, but rain is due to set in for the whole day.

Neither scenario is preferable – So, what do I do?

Day 2, Accomplished: South Pacific Motorcycle Tours base to Lake Tekapo – 261kms

I stopped at a lookout just near the Farm Barn cafe on the way to Lake Tekapo, because it looked like this:

Just… hnnngh!

I arrived in Tekapo around 16:30. I checked in, opened the curtains and was shocked to discover a distinct lack of Jucy vans or other cars in view. Instead, I saw some blue stuff, some green stuff and some white stuff.

Put it all together and it looks a lot like this:

Yep. That’s quite a view.

Truth be told, the trip here was hairy. The wind is blowing so fiercely that I was on a tilt when riding perpendicular to the gusts.

It’s such beautiful weather that I want to head up to Mt Cook, but I’m going to pass on that, due to the wind. If it’s fine in the morning, I’ll give it a go.

For now, I’m going to grab the panniers off the bike and haul them inside, along with all my camera gear.

I’ve got a stargazing experience booked for around 10pm tonight, so before that goes down, I’ll saunter down to the lakeside for some photos.

I will probably hit Tekapo Ramen 🍜 for dinner 👌 😉

6:30pm – I’m going to get sick of saying ‘beautiful’ all the time.

The lupins by Lake Tekapo


8:45pm

The ramen was okay, but I’ve got a far bigger issue to sort out. This deserves its own post.

9:30pm – Nature turns.

Unfortunately, it seems as though the overcast conditions earlier seen creeping over Lake Tekapo have set in.

Gusts are expected up to 100kph tonight in some mountain areas and along with it, will come rain.

Sadly, this means that tonight’s stargazing experience may be hamstrung, but let’s see what they put on instead…

10pm – Booooo~!

Unfortunately, the Dark Sky experience was cancelled due to the overcast conditions.

I opted for a refund, with the idea of coming back through this way in a few days to experience the two hour long session instead.

Day 1 – Christchurch to Lake Tekapo

7am: Good morning!

The clock says 7am, but the body says 4am.

Time to set up for the day, saunter out to find a quick bite to eat and grab some road snacks from Woolw- sorry, “Countdown” 🤨

It’s currently fine and 20°C!

W is for Countdown, where they have trundlers instead of trolleys 😍

They’ve also replaced single use plastic bags with brown paper ones 👍

8:40am: The time for pickup draws near!

I was debating whether to leave my thermal and waterproof liners in my riding gear until I looked ahead at the temps along today’s route:

Christchurch – currently 24°

Immediately out of Christchurch (NW, closer to Mt Hutt – Oonta Goota Solo?!) – currently 17°

Destination (Lake Tekapo) – currently 11°.

12:00pm – Lunch

After signing paperwork, repacking my things and scooting up the road and back to prove my competence on the bike, I was away.

Many thanks to the South Pacific Motorcycle crew for such a smooth process – check them out, friends.

I stopped in Oxford for a pie and an iced latte. Let’s just say I’m sampling them all as I travel around the South Island 😉

12:30pm – On the road again.

I’m heading out again. The destination is Lake Tekapo via Geraldine and Fairlie.

Accomplished: Arrival

Goodbye, Australia…

Hello, New Zealand!


As the plane cut through the clouds, my mouth fell open in wonderment.

My first sight of New Zealand was of the jagged, snow capped tips of Kā Tiritiri o te Moana; the Southern Alps.

After checking in to my luxuriously appointed dwelling, I dined on the region’s finest example of an Italian sandwich, with vegetables and dressing – A footlong herb and cheese vege patty sub from Subway, because everything else was closed.

The view is second to none.


It’s currently a very welcoming 19.8°C.

Time to get some sleep. Pickup arrives at 9am and then it’s on, thick and heavy… like the ranch dressing on my footlong sub.